Happii-tei

In the restaurant district of Nishi-Gotanda 2-chome, Shinagawa, Happi-tei is a dependable choice at lunchtime when you want a filling set meal at a reasonable price. A lunchtime favourite for many is the nakaochi-don set: tuna scraped from the bones is piled over the bowl, with a rich flavour and a generous portion that makes for a hearty meal with rice. The set also comes with freshly fried menchi-katsu, a breaded minced-meat cutlet with a satisfying bite. It makes a generous pairing of juicy fried food and a seafood rice bowl. Alongside the main dishes come small sides of chilled tofu and daikon salad, as well as soup; diners report that everything is brought to the table promptly, one item after another.

The lunch sets extend well beyond the nakaochi-don. Other choices include fatty grilled salted mackerel served with menchi-katsu, a large, moist and tender chicken cutlet, homemade croquettes, and Japanese-style hamburg steak with grated daikon—a range of comforting meat and fish dishes. At lunchtime, the pace can be brisk, with some diners noting that orders are taken soon after entering. It may help to decide what you would like before stepping through the noren curtain.

In the evening, the menu shifts to small plates such as a three-kind sashimi platter, piping-hot meat and tofu, and various omelettes. With beer, local sake or shochu, Happi-tei also has the feel of a relaxed, informal drinking spot. Payment is cash only, and transport IC cards are not accepted, so bringing cash will make for a smoother visit.